Laying memories to rest in Cold War graveyard

PAJU, South Korea: Just south of the minefields, fences and watchposts of the world’s last Cold War frontier, a monk pours rice wine on the grave of an unknown North Korean soldier killed 60 years ago.

The monk, 57-year-old Mukgai, is alone in tending to the spirits of “enemy” combatants—North Korean and Chinese troops—who died in the slaughter of the 1950-53 Korean War and whose remains lie buried in an isolated South Korean cemetery.