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Text and photos by Rome Jorge
Filipinos, we know how wrong international
perception can be. The western media just doesn’t get it right.
Trouble in far-off Basilan is no excuse to miss all the beauty of
Mindanao, a big place with misty virgin forests, rich indigenous
culture and the friendliest of people. Or to avoid the entire
Philippines for that matter—7,100 islands of the most spectacular
beaches with talcum powder fine white sand, breathtaking dive sites
of iridescent coral gardens, cuddly dugongs, majestic humpback
whales and whale sharks, not to mention hundreds of colorful fiestas
in which to revel and indulge.
There is another place in this world much like
our own country with a noble people, a rich history and a diverse
culture—the often-unseen paradise that is Pakistan.
Culture
Pakistan is home to the most ancient Asian
civilization in Harrapa, Balochistan, as well as where the Greeks,
the Mughals, the British and several other great civilizations have
all left their indelible imprint. Go to where the descendants of
Alexander the Great’s army of Macedonians, Greeks and Persians
still run through the blood of the Kalash tribe in the Chitral
region. The ancient ruins of Taxila bear the traces of stupas
devoted to the Venus of the Bactrian Greeks as well those of Buddha.
Even the sculptures of Buddha in the Museum of Taxila bear
unmistakably Grecian beauty. In modern Pakistan, locals can possess
blond hair, oriental eyes or dark olive skin. The diversity of
cultures is intrinsic in every stage of this country’s proud
history.
For those wishing to go back in time to the
colonial era, take a romantic steam train through the Khyber Pass
where the armies of Aryans, Persians, Arabs, Huns, Afghans,
Macedonians and British have all passed, and where the treasures of
the Silk Road flowed from Europe and China. Enjoy the service of
bow-tied waiters as you chug along the countryside. Marvel at army
bagpipe bands and the flag ceremonies that combine all the fierce
regality of British pomp and pageantry with Mughal regality.
Religion
The towering onion domes of the grand Badshahi
Mosque of the Emperor Aurangzeb in Lahore Fort incorporate the
gilded spires of Sikh temples and the inverted lotus flower of
Buddhist shrines to reflect the cultural diversity of the Mughal
Empire. The stupendous yet sublime beauty of the mosque as well as
the entire Lahore Fort with its intricate red sandstone walls,
honeycomb marble lattices and glazed tile mosaics, speaks eloquently
of the sophistication and enlightenment that the Mughal dynasty
cultivated. The mosque itself sits beside the Dera Sahib, a most
exquisite creation of florid curves in white and gold and one of the
most important pilgrimage sites for Sikhs. At the Lahore Museum,
explore pavilions devoted to wonderful artworks and relics of
Jainism, Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam. Its most arresting treasure
piece by far is “the Starving Buddha,” a skeletal portrayal that
dares to break symmetry by having the figure lean to one side.
For Muslim travelers, Pakistan is an eye opener
with its rich history of Sufi mysticism. Multan, dubbed “the city
of saints,” exposes travelers to a rich local culture that tempers
the faith.
Adventure
Pakistan has long been on the map of
mountaineers and extreme sports enthusiasts. President Pervez
Musharraf declares: “We have the best mountains in the world. We
have the K2, which is supposed to be the second highest mountain of
the world. We have the 14 highest peaks of the world in Pakistan. We
have the largest number of glaciers in Pakistan outside the polar
region. Therefore this makes an ideal venue for tracking and rock
climbing.”
Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz also noted that
Swiss mountaineers, revered throughout the world, refer to their own
peaks as “baby mountains.” “This is where there are real
mountains,” he quotes them.
Sohail Azhar—a Pakistani-born and English
raised mountaineer, who is now director of the UK-based company
TravelPak that facilitates tours of his motherland of other
Pakistani expatriates—notes that there is excellent alpine
climbing but a few hour’s drive from the capital Islamabad and
that Pakistan is where four great valleys converge.
Pakistan offers an alpine experience with
crystal-clear mountain lakes, ski slopes and mountain lodges. Azhar
recommends going beyond the popular Murree resort town and exploring
the quieter lakesides in the mountains.
This year, Pakistan will host numerous
extreme-sporting events such as mountain marathons, jeep safaris,
white water rafting expeditions and mountain bike competitions. A
hot air-balloon festival, aerial safaris of Pakistan’s mountain
ranges and Basant—the traditional kite flying festival of Lahore
in spring—all provide travelers a uniquely uplifting experience.
Shopping
And oh, the shopping and the street life! A tour
of Lok Virsa, Pakistan’s National Museum of Ethnology in Islamabad
whets one’s appetite for all things Paksitani and surprisingly
provides a great guide on what handicrafts to buy in the different
regions of Pakistan. However, the true bargains are to be found in
the ancient cities such as Lahore.
By far, the most authentic Pakistani experience
is taking a rikshaw—a three-wheeled contrivance much like our very
own four-wheeled jeepney—and weaves in and out of the old city’s
narrow crowded streets, hunting for bargain spots such as Liberty
(Ladies’) Market in Lahore. Go crazy buying the Pashmina shawls
and scarves of the finest wool and the most intricate designs. There
are also intricate glass-beaded leather-soled slippers and dainty
handbags for ladies, and finely made leather jackets and suits for
men. Pakistani women, the epitome of elegance and beauty, have
elevated the shalwar kameez, the national dress for both men and
women, into a most feminine ensemble.
Woolen carpets, lattice brass lamps, silver
jewelry boxes, and if you care to have it shipped—the most
intricate door frames and most colorful chairs on Earth—all tempt
the traveler.
As you go through bustling avenues, note not
only the fusion of British colonial architecture with Mughal motifs
but also of the Pakistani penchant for elaborating everything from
rickshaws to buses, to trucks, to even tractors. Such folkloric art
brims to the surface even in the busiest city streets.
A fine thing to tote back home is a hookah water
pipe. One puff of apple-flavored shisha on a hookah pipe inside a
cozy café such as the Hangout Bar in Islamabad and you will find
cigarettes to be absolutely barbaric; hookah is the proper way to
smoke.
By far the most authentic Pakistani experience
is feasting on some genuine street food. You haven’t tasted real
kebabs until you have savored the soft and flavorful mutton kebabs
on the streets of Lahore. Freshly grilled over coals, these are
clean, filling and quite a bargain. Chai, that milky and sweet hot
tea drank all over Pakistan, is best savored off the street where it
is boiled all day and night in huge caldrons into a creamy
consistency that is nothing like the tea bag affair they serve in
posh hotels.
Those wanting to retreat to the gracious
accommodations of world-class luxury hotel will have plenty to
choose from in Pakistan. The Marriott, Holiday Inn and many other
hotels offer globe trotting travelers luxuries such as spas and even
alcoholic beverages (only for non-Muslim guests). Besides biryani
rice, masala and other local fare elevated to haute cuisine, these
fine hotels also offer continental and oriental dishes.
Although Pakistan offers a great tourist
experience, it is still not too touristy. No overly aggressive
hawkers and hustlers yet. Pakistani merchants have their own selling
strategy: hospitality. How can you refuse when they offer tea and
biscuits? And if you think Pakistan offers the same wares as India,
think again. Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz recalls that during the
friendship cricket matches between the two countries, Indian
visitors “cleaned out Lahore’s shops.” Pakistan and all its
marvels are unique and even their neighbors know it.
Pakistan has so far escaped the radar of most
travelers. As Musaraff himself notes: “Pakistan is the ideal
destination for tourism. Unfortunately, it is the best-kept secret
of Pakistan.” But that is about to change as Federal Tourism
Minister Nelofar Bakhtiar unveils Destination Pakistan 2007, a
year-round calendar of events to promote the country in three niche
markets: religious tourism, most especially for Sikh and Buddhist
pilgrims as well as Muslim devotees; cultural tourism with the
numerous archeological sites and well-maintained museums; and
adventure tourism in the mountain ranges and deserts. Already, great
strides have been made to improve the country’s tourism
infrastructure with numerous additional roads and hotels under
construction. Those traveling Pakistan will feel secure with the
very visible and constant presence of military and police. The
common folk in urban areas speak English and are quite helpful.
This year, see the unseen. Explore Pakistan and
discover a totally different country from the one you thought you
knew.
For more information, visit www.tourism.gov.pk.
The Pakistan advisory
Traveling to Pakistan is a safe, affordable and
unforgettable experience. Here are a few tips to maximize your trip
based on actual experiences:
* Shawls for women and scarves for men are more
than fashionable; they are essential gear. They warm you on chilly
nights and allow ladies to enter mosques.
* Women travelers would do well to always wear
long-sleeved shirts with pants or long skirts and avoid exposing
skin with low-rise jeans, short skirts, sleeveless blouses, hanging
shirts and other revealing clothing. Even Capri pants can incur too
many stares. Even men should wear pants.
* The Pakistani Rupee has nearly the same value
as a Filipino peso. Currently, one peso equals roughly 1.2 rupees.
* Always haggle for a lower price. Threaten to
walk away and they will always concede. Tourist prices can nearly
double at markets. Hotel shops can sell for prices several times
over. If they are offering purchases using credit cards or dollars,
they are most often overpriced. But even then, these items can be a
great find.
* They do not sell alcoholic beverages in all of
Pakistan, save in international hotels, and even then only to
non-Muslims. Hotel managers will go as far to ask for the passports
of guests with Arabic sounding names to comply with religious laws.
Do not try their nonalcoholic beers. They are nothing like the real
thing.
* Do not drink from the tap. Bottled water and
beverages that have been boiled such as tea and coffee are quite
safe. Cooked street food is delicious.
* Temperatures and humidity can vary greatly
depending on the season. Always check the Internet for your
seven-day forecast.
* Know the news. Just as one should check the
six-day forecasts on weather websites to know what to wear, one
should also follow world news and travel advisories from the
Department of Foreign Affairs.
* Know your geography. Just as it is
unjustifiable to label the whole of Mindanao as dangerous because of
incidents in Basilan, one should not avoid the country because of
problems in remote areas or border regions.
* Know your world culture. Avoid offending local
sensibilities. Many historical sites are functioning religious
centers and one should dress properly. Never be pushy or noisy. Do
not discuss politics, religion or any potentially divisive issue.
* Know your way. Always seek out and get free
copies of tourist street maps at hotels airports and train stations
in every destination. Identify your hotel, police stations, bus,
tram, train and subway stations and other safe points to go to in
case of emergency. Orient yourself to where you are before
proceeding and always trace your route to each destination. When
traveling with company always designate a safe point to rendezvous
at a given time should you be separated. Bring your mobile phones
and store the numbers of your local guides and contacts.
* Be a civilian. With outdoor tourism such as
mountaineering or kayaking, avoid military clothing or gear,
especially in regions with known insurgency problems. Always pay a
courtesy call to local officials and inform them of your itinerary.
Should you and your party fail to make it back in time, this
information will allow them to mount a search and rescue mission at
the soonest possible time.
* It is quite normal for security guards,
policemen and military personnel to sport Kalashnikov assault
rifles. Do not be alarmed and do not alarm them.
* Most Pakistanis in urban areas speak English
and are quite helpful.
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