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I became aware of Panciteria Lido when I read about it in Kapihan (ArtPostAsia
2007), Nestlé’s tome celebrating their 75th anniversary in the
Philippines, which I’ve also reviewed in this column. Its photos
capture the rhythm of that particular coffee shop. I’m especially
tantalized by the row of siphon coffee pots lined up on the counter,
the most gripping photo of which showed a pot whose amber contents
appeared to be under pressure: full strength coffee.
The original Panciteria Lido has been around for
a long time and is in the bowels of Binondo, an area where I become
a tourist in my own city. I’m hesitant to go all that way so I’m
overjoyed when I find out that it has branches in Ortigas and Quezon
City. One day, I’m nowhere near the latter location, but I make my
way there and find out that Panciteria Lido has become Han Wok.
The guard laughs at the puzzlement so evident on
my face and assures me that, yes, Panciteria Lido has had a name
change. Once inside the restaurant, my eyes immediately dart towards
the counter. But I don’t see any siphon pots. The accommodating
manager, like the security guard, also assures me that only the name
has changed and yes, they still serve siphon pot coffee. (Only the
original branch in Binondo retains the Panciteria Lido name).
Why my fixation on siphon pots and coffee? Aside
from my obsession with the midnight liquid, a siphon pot (otherwise
known as Cona vacuum pot) is a method of brewing coffee in a lower
carafe by immersing the coffee grounds in water for a few minutes.
When the water boils, it moves to the upper funnel, it’s stirred
briefly, and when the temperature has dropped sufficiently, a vacuum
is created that sucks the coffee back down into the lower carafe.
It’s terribly fascinating even just to watch; a strikingly visual
demonstration of the laws of physics in full effect.
The brew is a resultant mix of darkness, potent
with caffeine, and—depending on how one drinks his
coffee—swirled with the lightness of cream. Han Wok uses a special
kind of liquid creamer that contributes its own creamy finesse. It
is coffee to savor appreciatively, and depending on my mood, good to
brood over.
Han Wok (aka Panciteria Lido) is also known for
its Chinese cuisine. I’m primarily here for the coffee, but I do
get to try their Lomi (P155). Everything on the menu looks good, and
I’m told their specialty is the curiously named Three Cups Chicken
in Hotpot (P285), so named because of how it’s cooked. These are
definitely reasons to come back for more.
Han Wok (aka Panciteria Lido) is at Madison
Square, Ortigas Ave., QC. It opens daily from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
for details, call 724-4051 or 721-7479.
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Lori Baltazar can be reached via her website
www.dessertcomesfirst.com or through her email, lori_baltazar@yahoo.com.
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