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Friday, February 15, 2008

 

A real kung fu in Manila

By Perry Gil S. Mallari
 
The mystique of Chinatown is almost always associated with its old buildings and temples, the aroma of Chinese food and incense, and yes, kung fu, the ancient Chinese martial art.

Co (left) demonstrating weapons technique
with a fellow Ngo Cho Kun practitioner.

Among martial arts practitioners in Manila’s crowded district of Chinatown, one kung fu school has become legendary because of its distinction in preserving the art’s authentic tradition as passed on from old China—the Beng Kiam Athletic Association,  the oldest kung fu school in the country.

“Beng Kiam was established in 1935 by the late Master Tan Ka Hong,” relates Alexander Co, the school’s current vice chairman. Co, who started training with Beng Kiam in 1968 is now among the most revered masters of the organization. He shares that a kung fu master named Tan Kiong Beng (founder Tan Ka Hong’s father), who specializes in the Ngo Cho Kun (Five Ancestors) style of kung fu traveled by sea to Manila from China during the early 30s.

“Like most traditional martial art masters, the elder Tan employed his skills then as a herbalist and bonesetter to help his compatriots in the country,” Co narrates. Confronted with a clamor to establish a kung fu school in the Philippines, the older Tan assigned his son the task of spearheading his beloved martial art in the country. “The original location of Beng Kiam was in Asuncion Street, then it moved to Nueva Street (where the Holland Hopia factory is now located), until it was finally relocated to its current place at the far end of the same street,” adds Co. Unlike commercial martial arts academies, Beng Kiam dons no signage on its façade and unless you know somebody in the school or ask an old timer, you can roam Binondo District all day and never find it.

Elaborating on the style of kung fu that Beng Kiam teaches, Co says that the Ngo Cho Kun is one of the most famous kung fu styles that came out of the Fujian province in China. “It is basically a synthesis of five earlier fighting styles: white crane, monkey, emperor, Bodhidharma and Lohan,” he explains, adding, “Ngo Cho Kun became so famous that the previous five individual methods were overshadowed.” The veteran kung fu sifu (teacher) also elaborates that Ngo Cho Kun is a close-quarter combat art much like wing chun, the original style studied by the celebrated Bruce Lee.

Co, who has been in the art for 40 years, has the fearsome aura of a fighter with an inch-thick layer of callous on the knuckles of his right fist. “Ngo Cho Kun practitioners are honed toward internal energy cultivation,” he stresses, “It is used in bursting energy attacks and iron body development.” Despite the obvious rigor of the training, he emphasizes that striking a balance in everything is of utmost importance, “It should always be yin and yang, otherwise it won’t be healthy,” Co cautions.

Co reminisces that during his youth, kung fu was akin to basketball today among the Chinese kids of Binondo. “It’s a common pastime after school and there were really lots of kung fu schools then in our area,” he recalls. Co also tells of a kung fu tradition that is now gone, “Kung fu practitioners during the pre-World War II days served as the protectors of the community,” he discloses. He relates that the schools or kwoons then do not charge much but once a student is accepted, it was an unwritten law that he would also serve as protector of the community.

Co remembers Master Tan’s reluctance to accept trainees that do not display the needed abilities, “He’s worried that they would just become a liability when trouble erupts,” he says. Co also remembers that it was customary then for prominent Chinese businessmen to employ kung fu experts as bodyguards, “But from the 1950s and beyond, that tradition slowly died,” he intones.

Through the years, Co says that Beng Kiam has kept the original tradition of teaching kung fu only to Chinese. “It manages to maintain that tradition because it is not a commercial school and does not need to attract students,” he explains. He adds that there were exceptions though. “Through its more than seven decades of existence, there were only three Filipinos that were accepted to train in the school. The most notable of them is Christopher Ricketts of the famed Bakbakan fighting group, the other is Benjie Lozare, who once served as dean of mass communication at the University of the Philippines, and the third person, his name I forgot.”

People today hardly know the difference between traditional kung fu and modern wushu, which is the unified Chinese martial arts version of Communist China. “This is evident even among Chinese,” he laments. Co believes that much of the combative essence of the original kung fu has been lost in the eclectic version that is now proliferating among the new generation of practitioners. “It’s more like ballet, how can you fight with that,” he bemoans.

Commenting on his recent visit to China, Co says that the remaining kung fu traditionalists in the mainland share the same sentiment. “In China, the old masters say it’s either you follow modern wushu or get left out.” Co also shares his piece of thought on the popularity of mixed martial arts (MMA) events nowadays, “It’s popular as a sport but one must realize that a real street fight is on a totally different level.”

Co is an embodiment of the yin and yang philosophy of kung fu, the man is sharp not only physically but intellectually as well. He is a seasoned writer and holds the distinction of writing and publishing the very first kung fu book in the Philippines. In the post-Bruce Lee mania period, Co bravely came out with Martial Arts Magazine until logistical and distribution woes made him quit. “There’s really no money in martial arts publication and that venture was just a labor of love,” he narrates. Older and wiser a few years down the line, Co again pursued publishing books on the subject, which fared better both on local and international distribution. He also explains that being a writer allowed him to question old kung fu masters regarding nuances of the art with much boldness, “Traditionally they would consider that rude had I not informed them that I was a writer,” he explains.

With a taint of sadness evident in his eyes, Co comments that the younger generation is no longer that interested in kung fu. When asked to compare the dedication of kung fu students then and now, he says, “Medyo malayo na, [it’s quite far in comparison].” Co’s passion for the art does not show any sign of waning down. With such a man, the tradition of real kung fu lives on in Manila’s Chinatown.

   

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