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Friday, February 15, 2008

 

AMBIENT VOICES
By Ma. Isabel Ongpin
One size doesn’t fit all

 
The clothes industry is about to incur some common sense.  This pertains to their clothes sizes which most women have trouble ascertaining which size is theirs.  The reason is because even if the salesperson or the individual herself chooses the size that should fit, it does not. It happens most of the time, not some of the time.  So, one country in Europe is now systematically working out a new way of figuring out sizes based on anthropometric and morphological studies.  The first refers to numbers of height and weight, and the second to shape.

Spain, through its Ministry of Health, has made the first move and will be the pioneer.  Last year, during Spain´s Fashion Week in Madrid, it banned ultra thin models from participating on the ground that they were an “incitement” to anorexia and, more importantly, did not represent the mass of women who would buy the clothes they were wearing.  It made headlines, caused a polemical discussion but caught the attention of the Spanish clothes industry.  Surveys conducted by the Ministry of Health showed that 41 percent of women in Spain said they had problems always or often to find the right sizes.  Yet data showed that 86.1 percent of Spain’s women were in a healthy height/weight correlation (Body Mass Index).  While 24.9 percent were overweight, there were five percent who were slightly underweight, 56.2 percent were within the norm. But the clothes industry of most countries seems to target the slightly underweight leaving the rest to feel they are overweight, abnormal and somewhat disfigured after fitting clothes that do not meet their sizes.

With these market conditions in mind, the Ministry of Health has embarked on a program to rationalize sizes.  Following The World Health Organization index that women within the 17 to 29.9 percent BMI while thinner than most of the female population, do not yet require medical intervention, Spain has imposed a minimum BMI of 18 for models who will participate in the Spanish Fashion Week currently being staged.  The result was three British models under the 18 BMI were banned from the show and two Spanish models refused to participate because they refused to be weighed and have their BMI determined.

The ministry’s program of size rationalization has made a study of 10,415 women from 12 to 70 years of age.  From this study it has established for the first time, three morphological types of feminine bodies—cylindrical, curvaceous and bell-shaped. Cylinder is the shape of young girls’ bodies from infancy to adolescence where the perimeters of chest, waist and hips are the same.  The curvaceous is the adult woman whose chest and hips are wider than her waist.  The bell shape (“campana”) refers to women of a certain older age whose chest and waist are equal and the hips wider.  From these data the Ministry of Health with the cooperation of the Spanish clothes industry will embark on new sizes that will be much more compatible with the real sizes of real women out there.  It is envisioned that instead of one size as in Medium or 42, there will be four figures as in 1234, referring to height, chest, waist and hips.

Eventually, Spain will bring this program of size rationalization to the European Union for future implementation in all of Europe. Then most women will no longer complain that the sizes they can fit into are difficult to find or ephemeral.  Common sense and reality will at last come into the fashion industry.

   
 

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