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I get a craving for croissants once a week, usually on weekends.
Because I was eating them so regularly, I started comparing the
different types available. By geographical default, I buy croissants
from the stores that are easily accessible for me: The Peninsula
Exclusivités, the Mandarin Deli, Delifrance, and French Baker.
Everyone is familiar with a croissant, its
characteristic crescent shape and its ineffable flakiness achieved
by “folding” layers of butter between layers of dough. A good
croissant renders audible the crunch of each layer, the shattering
of crumb as my teeth break through the crust, resulting in a
magnificent mess of mouth and table. There’s no other bread quite
like it.
The croissants procured at the four stores
mentioned above are all treated in the same way. Heated in a
standard toaster oven just to warm them up and then eaten plain,
they’re graded according to crunch, flakiness, and flavor. From
this simple, highly unscientific test, my findings reveal that a
croissant is not just a croissant—more often than not, it’s
less.
Delifrance
Price: P42/each
This croissant scored the poorest. Longer and
narrower in shape, its mere appearance almost disqualifies it from
the contest. Possessing good crunch, that fact is negated by the
large gap between crust and layer. There’s also a slight gumminess
and doughy aftertaste.
Score: 7/10
The Peninsula Exclusivités
Price: P32/each
Short and squat, this croissant’s layers are
more defined than that from Delifrance. Its crunch is satisfactory
punctuated by a yeasty flavor. There’s a pleasant buttery
aftertaste that I quite like.
Score: 8/10
French Baker
Price: P34/each
The country’s largest bakery turns out a very
decent croissant. Almost perfect with its crescent shape, it has a
memorable aftertaste, with layers that are clearly defined. It
strikes a balance between yeasty flavor and a buttery mouthfeel.
Score: 9/10
Mandarin Deli
Price: P43/each
The Mandarin has the largest croissants in the
country. Almost overwhelming in size, it packs a lot in terms of
taste and texture. Impeccably shaped, its mass makes it the perfect
receptacle for cradling a poached egg. Almost painfully crunchy, its
layers are stark and separate enough to be counted. Truly, there
can’t be a better croissant than this one.
Score: 10/10
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Lori Baltazar can be reached via her website
www.dessertcomesfirst.com or through her e-mail, lori_baltazar@yahoo.com.
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