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Old habits are hard to break, especially if they’ve
been around for 30 years. When the Dusit Hotel in Makati underwent a
massive renovation last year, its popular Japanese restaurant,
Benkay, bid farewell to three decades of service and metamorphose
into Umu. Umu, which means, “born of nature” in Japanese,
promises a dining encounter unequaled in Manila.
True to its name, Umu’s
interiors boast of earthy materials such as onyx, wood and granite
accented by an extraordinary bronze relief sculpture. Umu’s 1,000
square meter interiors include pavilions, which serve as function
rooms, an al fresco smoking and dining area as well as traditional
tatami rooms. “This is also the only Japanese restaurant in Manila
that opens up to a beautiful garden,” remarks Umu’s Maitre
D’Hotel Paolo Quimson. The garden is especially beautiful at night
when it’s illuminated matched with the hypnotic sound of gurgling
of waterfalls.
The arresting visuals rightfully
match the exceptional food. The “Chef’s Special” (price
available upon request) includes luscious appetizers like slices of
braised duck bathed in a pleasantly salty glaze; cream cheese
punctuated with the spice of pink peppercorns; and pumpkin tofu
garnished with a kaleidoscope of avocado, shrimp, dragon fruit, and
cherry tomatoes. A masterpiece.
Of course what’s a Japanese
meal without the requisite sushi and sashimi? Try the Sashimi
Gosyumori (P2,480), five different types of seafood inimitably
presented on a bed of Japanese herbs held aloft by a tower of stones
and
faux crystals.
Umu has begun to make a name for
itself with its teppanyaki offerings and its food cooked on a robata
grill. A traditional Japanese cooking method, the robatayaki style
of cooking is food cooked over an open charcoal flame, minimizing
oil and locking in the flavor. A method perfectly in sync with
today’s style of eating. Equally enjoyable is the Saturday lunch
buffet held at UMU for only P1,390 (nett).
To end the meal on a high (and
just slightly sweet) note, the Strawberry Sake Jelly (P125)
satisfies with its confluence of textures as well as the Cheese
Mousse with Ogura (P125), a sweet red bean.
Umu is open from Monday to
Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 6 to 10 p.m. For
inquiries and reservations, phone (2) 867-3333, extension 3343 /
3344.
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