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Friday, June 06, 2008

 
DESSERT COMES FIRST
By Lori B. Baltazar
Stomp on purple grapes,
get Purple Feet

 
Admittedly, the restaurant’s name, Purple Feet, is cause for pause, but for a restaurant that’s an extension of Wine Depot, it makes sense. The wine making process of old included the time-honored tradition of stomping the grapes, thus the name Purple Feet.

The restaurant is decidedly unfussy in its ambiance: wine crates, wooden tables and chairs. Wine choices are listed on pillars, and as can be expected from a restaurant that claims its “wine list is our wine shop,” wine is a huge aspect of the dishes served here.

Chef-owner Marco Legasto invites diners to let their culinary imaginations fly. The menu is written out on a big blackboard for all to see, what he calls “raw materials” that the chefs can work their magic on: prime cuts of beef, pork, poultry, rabbit, ostrich, and seafood. The menu abounds in big pleasures supported by a constellation of flavors. Choose a protein and then tell the chef your preferred preparation and flavor. Thus, Chef Marco and his crew place a unique challenge on their guests: choose your food and tell us how to cook it. They call it “freestyle cooking.”

The saving grace—the prize, if you will—for being made to “choose your own meal adventure” at Purple Feet is the masterful handling of the ingredients. Every bite sparkles, every flavor flows seamlessly into the next one. Today, the braised rabbit remains beguiling fare, its tender meat bathed in a sauce heavy on red wine with murmurs of the Mediterranean—olives, rosemary, garlic, and the purest olive oil. On another day, my dining companion and I have our own personal epiphanies with our respective dishes—him with his chicken not-spicy-please! curry, and I with an outstanding pork tenderloin. Bathed in uni butter and truffle oil, it moves me to silence.

Desserts are a simpler, more straightforward matter. Go for the bread pudding—it’s so good that all spoons zero in on it. The panna cotta is a darling little thing with a beautiful mango flower atop its soft, velvet body. Another time, the baked cheesecake is like a study in the architecture of flavor. Four cheeses—cream cheese, Gouda, Havarti, and aged cheddar—mix and meld.

When at Purple Feet, I highly suggest talking directly to a chef. He can (obviously) give more enlightened, exciting food choices. And that’s what Purple Feet is all about—a way of eating that is intelligent and inspired, dishes that are true to their flavors with original and unexpected seasonings that evoke intense, immense emotions cooked by chefs that are inspired and willful.

Purple Feet is inside Wine Depot, 217 Nicanor Garcia St. (formerly Reposo Street), Bel-Air, Makati City, open from Monday to Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. For details, call 8973220 or 897-8167.

___

Lori Baltazar can be reached via her website www.dessertcomesfirst.com or through her e-mail, lori_baltazar@yahoo.com.

   

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