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Sunday, June 29, 2008

 

Ines Cabarrus

Teaching wine with spirit

By Ana Santos, Contributor

Photos by KJ Rosales

Imagine a school where you can sip a glass of wine during class while watching TV shows and movies. If you are one of Ines Cabarrus’ students taking her Beverage Management and Wine Appreciation class at the Enderun College of Hotel and Restaurant Management, you just might find yourself in such a learning environment.

“The subject I teach covers a wide range of topics related to wine and all other kinds of beverages. I have to, for example, discuss the production process like how beer is fermented and wine is made. It’s almost like chemistry and can get pretty boring. So I try to make it as fun and as educational as I can by making it very visual. I had my students watch The Simpsons and cited Moe as an example of bad bar tending. I teach this way because I learn best this way,” explains Ines.

At Enderun, where empirical knowledge and practical application of Culinary Arts theories is key, teaching methods that will stimulate students’ interest and creativity are encouraged. Cabarrus herself is a refreshing change from the traditional image of a sommelier. Young and bubbly, she is a pleasant contradiction to the perception that learning about wine has to be done in a stiff, formal environment and appeals only to older age group.

“I once had the students watch Sideways because of how the characters in the movie talk about wine. The movie is a great example of how wine is a passion, a lifestyle, almost an art for some people. It isn’t just a drink; it is an essential part of life.” There is an excitement in Cabarrus’ voice as she talks. Clearly, her enthusiasm about wine and her view about how it should be fun and experiential are telling of Ines’ own passion for it, and are quite infectious. This is the same vibrant personality and energy that Ines projects in each of her classes.

There is a saying that being a teacher is equal parts preparation and theatrics. Ines acknowledges the fact that her majoring in Theatre Arts from the College of the Holy Cross in Massachusetts greatly influences her teaching.

“A lot of it is definitely about acting—you have to keep the students awake. I’m known for jumping from one end to the classroom to another, for using varying facial expressions and lots of gestures and trying different teaching styles,” Ines candidly says, gesturing with her arms.

“My background has also trained me not to be nervous in front of a crowd, and I guess it helps that I like being the center of attention,” Cabarrus laughs gamely at herself, adding, “I try to teach this same confidence to my students. We are in the hospitality industry and students should be trained to properly conduct and carry themselves with confidence when they face guests. I also employ a lot of role-play to make the students feel comfortable about public speaking. I find that they learn more about a topic when they have to talk about it in front of others.”

Cabarrus is quick to say that it is not all fun and games. She will be the first to tell you that teaching something as subjective as wine appreciation has to take into account one’s individual tastes and requires a lot of innovation on the part of the Instructor. “Not everyone is into wine or spirits and some may even be intimidated by it—that’s okay. I usually conduct the wine tasting sessions in groups. This way, students can form their own opinions and discover their own preference. I don’t believe in forcing or imposing that wine should be this, or wine should be that. Letting them define their own tastes fosters initiative.”

A sommelier who also has an International Diploma in Hospitality Management from the William Blue International Hotel Management School in Sydney, Ines may be citing her own personal experience when referring to this. The early knowledge that she acquired to become a sommelier was borne out of her own inquisitiveness and intense self-study.

Cabarrus’ interest in wine started at the age of 14 when she traveled to Australia with an uncle who was a wine aficionado. “Every time we would have dinner, we had wine. I felt very grown up to be allowed to take my first sip. While in Australia, we visited vineyards and went to cellars to buy them by the cases. I found this experience to be really fascinating,” she recalls.

This fascination grew steadily over the years. “When I lived in Chicago, which a gastronomic experience in itself, my friends and I would always try out new restaurants. I was always, by default, asked to choose or suggest the wine that would best go with our meal. It turned out that I had a knack for choosing the wine that would not only taste good, but be of good value.”

Pouring over wine magazines, going to wine shops and reading up on female sommeliers like Andrea Immer, Joanna Simon and Natalie McClean who she describes as putting wine in a very simple language added to her knowledge.

Perhaps more than that, Ines’ affinity and interest in wine can be traced further back, to a bit of trivia about her ancestry.

“We are distant descendents of a French princess named Teresa who was best friends with Josephine. She was rumored to have introduced Josephine to Napoleon. One of Teresa’s descendants went into the wine business and had a vineyard in the Bordeaux area, in Médoc where the wine Château Pontoise Cabarrus comes from.”

“I just found out about this last year over dinner and of course, wine with my family. My father suddenly remembered this fact. And! He even pulled out this bottle that he had been keeping the basement. It was totally dead of course, but there it was—Chateau Pontoise Cabarrus. I told him that he could have told me sooner—after all this time that I was talking about wine. It was quite funny. My uncle visited the chateau which still exists,” Cabarrus smiles at the recollection.

Not many people can claim this heritage and given that not many people grew up with wine (compared to our European counterparts), one may find it difficult to teach it as a subject to a predominantly Asian class. But Cabarrus dispels this notion this by saying that perhaps the only drawback is the Asian tendency to be allergic to wine and turn red after a few sips.

It helps that in the last couple of years, the wine market has been booming, with recent surge in the number of restaurants serving it, many local distributors holding wine tasting events, and supermarkets carrying more if it. This increased accessibility to wine has made it more affordable. Different kinds of wine are also emerging and gaining popularity. Cabarrus elaborates, “New world wines from Chile, Australia, New Zealand are more fruit forward. You can taste the fruity flavor of these wines right away making them easily adaptable to the Filipino palate. Old world wine like French wine more subtle and complex in terms of taste.”

In class, Cabarrus further capitalizes on this by finding ways to make the students get overcome any reservations that they may have. “I make the wine tasting very interactive. I don’t tell them what to expect so they are not afraid of coming up with the wrong answer. The students invent their own tasting notes (descriptions of the wine according to color, taste, smell). We compile them as a class and then compare them to the tasting notes of the experts. Often, the students’ tasting notes are usually close to that of the experts.”

She shares that some students are able to accurately pick up or detect the smells of wine just by drawing from their own experiences.

“While we were tasting Chiraz, one student said it reminded her of her dad’s shoe closet. What she was really smelling was the leathery aroma which is distinct to Chiraz. When we were tasting Chevignon Blanc, another student said that it smelled like vegetables. And indeed, the composition of Chevignon Blanc makes it smell very grassy. I had a blind tasting for whisky, vodka and scotch. The group that guessed everything correctly—even the brand—were a group of Korean students.”

These discoveries are encouraging to Cabarrus and what makes teaching incredibly gratifying for her. “I love sharing information about my passions, my interests and talking to people. Teaching allows me to do both. I am still surprised at how I can impact change people’s lives with my teaching, albeit in a small way.”

Just recently, one of Cabarrus’ former students confided that what he had learned in class helped him deepen his relationship with his dad who had always been a wine lover. His classroom knowledge became conversation starters with his dad. Bonding experiences soon followed as he and his father started going out on their own wine tasting activities. At the time that he had told her this, Ines’ student had just come back from a trip to the Napa Valley wine region with his whole family.

Wine is quite literally, in her blood. And as her students chart their own path their way to becoming hoteliers, sommeliers and gourmet chefs, knowledge and a lifelong appreciation of wine is what Ines Cabarrus hopes to pass on to them one glass at a time … or make that one class at a time. 

  

 

  
 
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Harold Mejilla, Alan Belizario, Jason Fernandez
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