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Thursday, March 13, 2008

 

Romancing the stone

Shoptalk with jewelry designer Laura de Guzman

By Perry Gil S. Mallari Photos by KJ Rosales

Artists come in all shapes and sizes and so do their mediums in which they express their art. Some prefer to work with paints, others opt to mold plaster or carve wood and a few use found objects to concretize their artistic visions. For jeweler and designer Laura de Guzman, it is precious stones and metals that bring her creative concepts to life.

An interior designer by training, de Guzman narrates that her love for jewelry was something she inherited from her grandmother Barbara Yap-Angeles, the founder of Angeles University in Pampanga. “It was my grandmother who taught me to appreciate beautiful jewelry,” she recalls with nostalgia.

Endowed with regal deportment, de Guzman married another creative individual in the person of Architect Arlen de Guzman. The couple has five children and three of them have clearly shown proclivity to the arts, “My two daughters—Pia and Anica—are both architects like their dad while my youngest son who’s now in Grade 3 also display strong aesthetic sensibilities.

De Guzman started to lay the groundwork for jewelry business seven years ago but it was only last month that she decided to open her shop she calls “Laura” at the fourth level of The Podium in Ortigas Center. Articulating on the kind of jewelry that her store sells, she says, “We have a wide variety of pieces with prices ranging from P500 to P200,000 depending on what the client wants.” De Guzman also explains that like fashion, trend in jewelry is also a cycle. “Last year, silver is the in thing and now it’s yellow gold.” She also comments on the target market she is focusing on, “I have a set of clients that are very, very fashionable. They don’t want pieces intended to be kept forever, they want designs that are en vogue.” In addition to fashionable jewelry, her shop also sells décors and reproduction of antiques.

Though preoccupied with running her store most of the time, it was in making custom-made jewelries that de Guzman fully displays her creative prowess. She discloses that the first step of the design process is to see the stone, which is often supplied by the client. “I draw preliminary sketches based on the physical attributes of the stone,” she elaborates, adding, “I then asked my platero to make a mold and a number of prototypes.” She stresses that this is the crucial phase of production wherein she dictates to the craftsman to implement the minutest detail of her design. The prototype then was presented to the client for approval. De Guzman emphasizes that everything must be right before the stone is finally set because corrections are very hard to do beyond this stage. “Baka mabakbak ‘yung bato pag inalis uli [The stone might be damaged if you try to reset it],” she explains.

Because of the tedious labor involved, de Guzman explains that custom-made jewelry commands a higher price. She discloses that her ability in appraising precious stones is a combination of highly trained senses and technological savvy. “I use gut-feel most of the time, but I do carry a tester that proves very useful particularly when I’m appraising multiple pieces,” she reveals.

De Guzman also shares her thoughts with The Times on investing in jewelries. “The best investment of course are diamonds but not everybody can afford them,” she explains, continuing, “Buying jewelries made of silver or gold is advantageous not only because of their value but also because both can be melted and forged into new designs as their owners deem fit.”

Given the very distinct nature of the business of designing and selling jewelries, de Guzman relates that it’s not for the general population, “You’ve got to have good eyes and good taste.” The creative designer intones that the two attributes she named cannot be studied or acquired outright. “They come naturally through ones upbringing and exposure,” she concludes.

   

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