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Thursday, May 29, 2008

 
FAN GIRL
By Karen Kunawicz
Temples and chocolate lingams

 
Cambodia. For pop culture enthusiasts, Cambodia would be the country Angelina Jolie put on the map. Cambodia was where the film “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider” was shot and this is where Angelina adopted her first child, Maddox.

Countless photographs have been taken of the temples in Siem Reap, but beyond the photos and the Tomb Raider movie, it is a part of Asia one truly has to experience.

I had to pack my Siem Reap experience into two days—but perhaps a good week is needed to take in most of the key temples at one’s leisure, to fully soak up the details of the bas-reliefs, the architecture and offer time to breathe in the craftsmanship, artistry, science, history and spirituality of it all. Several temples have spots where you can light sticks of incense and say a prayer (though a donation is expected), they also have many places where you can quietly meditate. After all, trees and forests surround the temples. A week would also leave time for kicking back, going to the market and sniffing out a good deal, biking around and sampling all sorts of Khmer food.

I did get to see Angkor Wat at sunrise and sunset, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Tah Prohm, Terrace of the Elephants and the Tower of the Snake Lady (I don’t remember the Khmer name for this but our guide told us on this tower lived a snake who disguised herself as a beautiful lady to seduce the King and compel him to visit her up at this high tower every night) as well as take an eye-opening boat ride on the Tonle Sap Lake. I unfortunately did not get to see Bantay Srei (Citadel of the Women) a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, which, according to an American backpacker I met there on the first morning, had such remarkable carvings he was going back there after breakfast to continue looking at them. And since Bantay Srei was off the beaten track, it was much quieter, with fewer visitors. Something to see then for my next trip there, hopefully with some adventurous cutie who won’t mind traveling with a chocolate junkie.

As with every trip, it’s always necessary to know where the nearest chocolate is and in Siem Reap, it was to be found at the Blue Pumpkin (yet another tip from the American backpacker) a bakery where I found chocolate cakes, brownies, chocolate croissants, chocolate lingams (yes, those phallic symbols), chocolate cookies and dark chocolate and rocky road ice cream.

Meals of course, were entirely Khmer. My travel buddy, Lee, and I sampled their chicken curry which had this sweet side to it—perhaps from the pumpkin and extra coconut. Our favorite dish however was hands down the grilled eggplant with ground pork at the Khmer Family Restaurant along the way to the main temple area. Winner.

Not quite done with Siem Reap but I had to say goodbye. Next stop—Phnom Penh. (to be continued)

   

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