In previous seasons of the Philippine Fashion Week (PhFW), the country’s largest and most-awaited fashion event had showcased international labels among local brands and designers. The tendency, however, was that the “foreign” shows grabbed the spotlight and gathered the most audience.
For PhFW Holiday 2014 held from May 28 to June 1 at the SMX Convention Center in Pasay City, The Manila Times proudly reports that Pinoy pride ruled on the runway as there was only one, participating global brand.
And while there were fewer shows this season compared to the past ones, a total of 50 emerging and established names in the fashion industry presented their latest collections to trend-savvy and forward-thinking crowds.
These Filipino designers all gathered on Day 3 in three jam-packed and back-to-back shows at Hall 3 from afternoon until evening. On the 12:30 slot, designers were Anthony Ramirez, Chris Diaz, Delby Bragais, Eric delos Santos, Happy Andrada, Harley Ruedas, Julius Tarog, Lizanne Cua, Pat Santos, Richard Papa, Roland Lirio, Sidney Perez Sio, Tina Daniac, Vania Romoff, Veejay Floresca, Xernan Ortico, and Yvonne Quisumbing.
Alodia Cecila, Arnold Galang, Dave Ocampo, Frederick Policarpio, Gerry Katigbak, Jeffrey Rogador, Jian Lasala, John Guarnes, Jun Jun Cambe, Melchor Guinto, Simon Ariel Vasquez, Ulysses King, Yevgeniya Yushoka, and EsAc by Lyle Ibañez and AudieAE followed at 3:30 p.m.
On the 6:30 show, designers Boyet Dysangco, Cherry Samuya Veric, Dexter Alazas, Ditta Sandico, Edgar San Diego, Edwin Uy, Erwin Tan, Gil Macaibay, Jaki Peñalosa, Jaz Cerezo, Jerome Salaya Ang, Joyce Pilarsky, Nardie Presa, Philipp Tampus, Randall Solomon, Raoul Ramirez, and Richie Bondoc were featured.
The long day was concluded by Albert Andrada’s one-man, benefit show.
This only proved that after 19 years, local talent and artistry still drives and dictates the Philippine Fashion Week.
Here are The Manila Times’ favorite collections:
Jerome Salaya Ang:
A play on pleats and paints
Jerome Sayala Ang is a name to be reckoned with in PhFW. Considered one of the fastest-rising, young designers in the country, he has already been honored to close previous seasons with his unbeatable creations.
For PhFW Holiday 2014, Ang was given a normal slot amongst 16 fellow designers for the evening runway show on May 31. But even so, he still exerted the same enthusiasm, energy and effort in designing—therefore presenting a collection worthy for a one-man show.
The designer began with little black dresses (LBD)s, with a boat neckline, below the knee in length and with long-sleeves. Yes, the silhouettes were very conservative, but Ang made up with the intricate pleating and layering. The result—bold LBDs bordering to avant-garde.
The same multiple and meticulous pleating that formed a wavy pattern were the focal point of Ang’s collection as it reoccurred in various attires. But to not overdo the pleats, the designer mixed it with other details like metallic fabrics or layers upon layers of square strips.
With his technique, Ang created fabulous midi or maxi dresses that will truly standout in the red carpet. And while he already put so much in the details, he then chose solid bright hues like teal, turquoise, yellow, lavender and fuchsia to balance the final outcome.
But surprises from the designer did not stop with the pleating as he also revealed hand-painted ensembles. He made a jacket into an abstract, black and white canvass. Then there was a hot pink dress made somber by a big mysterious face right in the center.
Finally, few more pieces like pants and skirt came out with splashes of paint.
By playing with pleats and paints, Ang was able to transform simple silhouettes into fantastic and artistic pieces.
Indigenous, ingenious weaves
Happy Andrada’s recent outings at the PhFW have continuously presented collections that spoke her signature style—indigenous fashion that is young, fresh and verywearable.
And for the upcoming season, Andrada did not disappoint. While she utilized once again
her favorite piña fabric, the designer was able to create a collection that is entirely different in appeal and style.
For starters, she also used another local textile, the t’nalak of the South. Together, the two weaves created something that is truly Filipino.
Offering multiple-piece ensembles, each look composed of a top with a skirt, or a dress, and then paired with a statement jacket. These jackets became the focal point for their big collars, shoulder beads, collar appliqués or t’nalak patterns. At one point, she even sewed piña, t’nalak and faux leather in one blazer.
She then added the looks with beaded nude leggings on the runway to emphasize that in the coming months, it is OK to layer clothes once again. Yet keeping the clothes’ practicality, she made all cuts just above the knee so that it could still be worn even after the season.
As for her choice of colors, Andrada proved her keen eye for the seasons. She chose generous grey tones with hint of red and black, and then dabs of earth tones like bronze, rose and orange.
For added drama, Andrada donned her models with tribal headdresses—faux animal fossils in various shapes and sizes.
The medieval men of today
Established Filipino designer Gerry Katigbak relieved the French Middle Age at the PhFW runway this Holiday 2014! But as a twist, he dressed up the modern men of today with grandeur and romantic ensembles.
Called “French Medieval Rock,” Katigbak’s menswear collection fused contemporary music with the golden era for beautifully, edgy ensembles.
The tale began with the materials that the designers used. “Classic fabrics such as wool, silk and linen are given a new edge with the addition of metallic pleated nylon,” he said.
He continued the vision with the silhouettes. The escorts wore fitted shirts and oversize jackets with unique details on the cuffs like floral appliqué, crochets and vintage buttons.
These were paired with pants that varied from slacks to jersey. The layering of clothes was seen from the first to the last model.
And as each ensemble came out on the catwalk, Katigbak played with color combinations like teal and lavender, violet and yellow, tangerine and green. For the absence of color, the designer used matte and metallic tones of black, grey and silver.
To fully transform his models into medieval men, Katigbak also donned them with huge cross necklaces, top hats, animal masks made of metal, and large feathers. And since they are already in modern times, their footwear were not confined to leather pairs as there was also loafers and sneakers.
“I wanted to create something radical and out of the box,” the designer concluded.