ZORAVE MOUNTAIN, Turkey: The crowd scanned the opposite side of the valley, looking for signs of movement across the border in the Syrian town of Ayn al-Arab, known as Kobani to its mostly Kurdish inhabitants.

“I’ve been coming here every day,” a 40-year-old man who goes by the nickname Abu Mohammad said as he peered toward his hometown less than a mile away. “What else am I going to do? At least this way I get to smell its earth,” he added.

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