ANTAKYA: As they left Antakya, Turkey's earthquake-shattered home of ancient civilizations, its anguished residents scribbled farewell messages on the ruins: "We'll come back" and "Don't lose hope."

Last month's deadly 7.8-magnitude quake and its aftershocks came down hard on Antakya — a fabled city near Syria once known as Antioch — ravaging centuries of treasured history.

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